Welcome to John's Nose-in-a-Day Page

The Goal of a Lifetime

I can't say exactly why I think this would be the ultimate rock climb, but I'm strongly driven to do it... someday. Meanwhile I'm fumbling about, trying to get better at leading 5.9 cracks. Maybe some day that'll be 5.10 cracks! I've always been into long days with lots of pitches, so a goal like this suits me.

Ok, on to the good stuff...

Here's the word from the Deuce (John Middendorf) on doing the NiaD. He recommends you get proficient at cruising mid-5.11 crack to put up a 10 hour time on the Nose; I'm thinking more like mid-5.10 crack and a 20-hour ascent.
You can read accounts of the first ascent of the NiaD: one by Billy Westbay which appeared in the awesome photo book "Yosemite Climber" by George Meyers. And another account by John Long which appeared in the June/July 1991 issue of Climbing magazine.
An on-line account by Jim Bridwell can be found on the ICS web site.
History and Records involving the Nose can be found here.
Here's a topo of the Nose. Or if you actually prefer a SuperTopo, Chris Mac has just what you need!
Historic picture of Westbay, Bridwell, and Long after the first one day ascent of the Nose in 1975.
Here is a video of Bill Wright and Tom Karpeichik doing the Nose-in-a-Day in June 2002. (Note: I haven't been able to get this video to work under Windows XP with Quicktime 6, though it does work under Windows 2000.)

Here it is: the largest collection of Nose Trip Reports in the world! :)

This is a list of every Trip Report about the Nose which I could find. These are (unfortunately) not one-day ascents, but still fun reading.

John Black's WWW Page / John R. Black / (jrblack@cs.colorado.edu)